Vibrating Table


I’ve been working on a vibrating table for the last couple of weeks (around holidays, family and campaign terrain), based on Ultrawerke’s. I’ve wanted to do something like this for a while, and after seeing his, I realized I had pretty much all the parts he used. The only things I actually had to buy was the “shadowbox” frame I got on sale for $10 and a couple bucks worth of springs.



I grabbed a couple of old fan trays from work that were getting thrown out a while back. They came out of some pretty high end computer switches and were large (120 cm, I’m sure). I always thought I’d use them either for industrial terrain or to power a hover craft. 😉 Anyway, they’re 12 volt, and I had a 12 volt wall wart laying around, so after grabbing a couple of bucks worth of loose dc power adapters from Radio Shack, I went to town.
The only thing is, Ultrawerke’s computer fan is more manageable, because this fan spins like CRAAAAAZY. You’ll notice that where he has a long bolt with a nut on it…I have a tiny washer. That’s because when I glued a bolt to mine, it about vibrated apart throwing itself off the table. Even with just the washer, it still goes nuts and my molds slide everywhere– hence the guard rails along the sides and the grip tape. I tried throwing a potentiometer in there to lower the voltage, but it seemed like it would only spin up at when the pot was turned to 0. I’m an electro-n3wb, so I’m not sure if I can lower the rpms. I guess I need to read up here and here, both of which seem to suggest that the pot method should have worked…may need to revisit that. Also, I shorted my first wall wart mocking this up with alligator clips, and my second one is putting out more like 15v… I might also look for some tighter springs.
I think the grip tape was actually useless or at worst counterproductive. I guess the movement isn’t just side to side but also up and down, and the rough surface just doesn’t help much. I think what I really need is a rubber surface for the molds to kind of stick to.
The little kickout to the side is where I’ll mount the power plug and an on/off switch. The shadowbox frame is almost an inch thick, and it seems too much trouble to mess with. I’ll just glue that on the side and drill a small hole to run the wires through.
I also probably need to go buy a piece of foam to sit this on so I can run it when the family is asleep. It gets a little loud and rattly.

Hirst Arts also has instructions for making a vibrating table.

Advertisements

%d bloggers like this: